Winter Restaurant Rush

Santi promotes a sense of playfulness and fun that belies its set-back entrance on East 53rd Street, just off Madison, as well as the ghosts of Alto, the rather serious Italian restaurant that presided here throughout the aughts. Santi, like Alto before it, has the blessing of chef Michael White in the kitchen, and in this case also marks his prodigal return to NYC’s dining scene after several years plying his trade in the Caribbean and surrounds.

The vibe in the packed (and in some parts, double-height) downstairs dining room was lively, but never too loud to hear ourselves talk. Following a gut renovation of the space, the restaurant is split into two levels — both are awash in neutral tones, and to my eyes, equally covetable. Service was nearly perfect, down to the tiny passionfruit terrine that arrived at my place, topped with a birthday candle, alongside an insanely good ricotta tartlet and chocolate tartufo.

Exiting the dining room back into the striking horseshoe bar that anchors Santi’s entrance area, lit from behind with a heavenly glow, I couldn’t help but cast my eyes on a stack of cards at the host stand. HAPPY ANNIVERSARY read the one on top. Yes, Santi is tailor-made for celebrations, but you needn’t one to go.

–Lockhart Steele